National Costume Knowledge - The Cultural Structure of Tibetan Costumes

The increasingly perfect Tibetan costumes have rich cultural connotation and varied levels. They not only have certain structural features, but also have many levels and regional differences, as well as some specific costumes and systems. The integration of Tibetans with the indigenous peoples of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau and the ancient Qiang people is almost a consensus of historical scholars. Whether it is the faqiang in the Qiang people or the creator of the culture such as Karo and Quogong, All of them live on the roof of the world where the terrain is high, the climate is cold, and the natural conditions are poor. The livestock and agriculture dominate. This determines that the basic characteristics of the Tibetan ancestors' clothing are thick, warm, fattened waist, long sleeves skirt. In order to adapt to the flow of animal husbandry production by water, gradually formed a large lapel, waist, leaving a prominent gap in the chest (like a bag), so go out can be stored ghee, 糌 粑, tea, rice bowls, or even You can put the child, hot weather or work, according to the need to bare right arm or arms, the Department of the Department of the waist line, adjust the body temperature, if necessary, to wear, do not have to wear all off, very convenient, sleep at night, untie the belt , Take off double sleeves, shop half cover half, became a warm sleeping bag, can be described as a multi-purpose, of course, these ways of wearing and use of functions can not be day by day, do not have to dwell on. However, it is not hard to imagine such a long-term tone by the Tibetan people. Someone once studied bronze images and ancient murals before and after the Western Han Dynasty. They found that the ancient Qiang people were very similar to today's Tibetan costumes. They all had fat waist, long sleeves, a large lapel, a right foot, a long skirt, a corset, Clothing, etc., astonishing similarities, indicating that Tibetan costumes have a strong stability, which is the best description of the ecological environment and lifestyle decisions clothing shape. No distinction between aristocrats and folk Tibetan robes In terms of rank differences, there is no fundamental difference between the aristocracy Tibetan robes and the structure of the folk possession. The difference is mainly reflected in the texture and pattern. Aristocratic costumes fine texture, pattern stress. There are generally python satin robe, from yellow, red, blue, green, white, purple and other colors for tone, above the "Xi" Wenxiang (dragon, water, fish, clouds and other lines). This gown is often worn by officials above the rank of fourth grade when meeting the Dalai Lama or during major festivals. It is a kind of satin robe with lotus and phoenix pattern auspiciousness. It is the official of the fourth grade or above with "Zhazhaer Erbaimama" (lotus satin Mongolian robe) The common Tibetan robe for the Chinese Lunar New Year. In addition there are Brocade robe, "song towel" robe and so on, are Lhasa Shigatse and other cities noble aristocrat's precious Tibetan robes. Historical records of the archaeological records of the Galung Polaroids of the eighteenth century provided precious materials for the costumes of upper-aristocratic and local government officials. From the book reflects the situation, when the aristocrat's coat, usually wearing a five-colored damask texture of the collar without panties small sleeve clothes to leather as the. Important festivals, then wearing python gown, Phi Phi fur shawl, wearing a gown, girdle gold silk satin belt, do not wear a knife pouch and other decorations, enough to wear leather boots, head hair, , Dai Ping top hat, the rest of the costumes and roughly the same Luo Luo. In addition, the hand with a bone plate, with rosary beads, literacy who insert a more like a scabbard at the waist like iron Jane, built-in pen bamboo stick, Tibetan ink bottles and other stationery. During the festivals, these subordinate officials turned their hair into a bun or two bun, wearing a wingless white hat (Tang Dynasty cap), the left ear wearing a gold-encrusted turquoise earring, a right earring coral, Sleeveless short sleeves, cuffs by the five colors of the damascene phase, wearing a black suede skirts, waistband satin ribbon. These aristocratic costumes, in addition to wingless white gauze hat and stationery iron tube, the other clothing is still popular today. From the records of "Tibet Chi", civilians men's clothing at that time was a big collar without a hidden Tibetan robes. Textured fabrics, silk and other informal colors, are wearing flat top hat, a bone trick in your hand, waistband belt or hairy hair band, holding rosary, but also wearing a knife and other accessories. Aristocrats and civilians in the way of dress are somewhat different, aristocratic men gown long fall to the instep, and tight; and general people's gowns are generally raised to the knee, upper body relaxed, easy Sheng and activities. When working, they took off their robes and their sleeves and tied them to their waist. Aristocratic women's costumes During this period, aristocratic women's costumes more gorgeous, published in 1733, "Polaroid Biography" has recorded the wedding of the wedding of Polaroid wife is: close to wearing a soft, velvety skirt , Outer cover God blue robe, blue corrugated folds decorated with peacock collar flowers. Boots wore tapestry bridesmaid feet, studded with gemstones in the waist, whirling belts, arms with gold baubles and conch bracelets. Middle finger and ring finger set gem inlaid ring, neck wear red amber necklace, chest hanging clear coral, rose jade, amber short necklace and bead jade wear necklaces long necklace. Hair is half separated, combed on both sides, which is pearl topknot, a strand of pigtail behind the ponytail, covered with gold and silver, beads jade, coral, gems. In addition, also with the triangular Ba Zhu headdress, the top bun has a huge loose ear stone, really pleasing jewel, brilliant. This kind of dress in the possession of the lady festival dress is representative. Women's usual dress In addition, the usual women's dress at that time is generally: wearing a red-green top of the cap decorated with a steeplechase, under the black-red cross-pattern fur skirt, the state mat. T-shirt is the waist waist sleeve short dress, texture hairy, satin, cloth and so on. Phi square embossed shawl, hand-band silver-studded coral ring, left hand wearing silver 钏, right hand wearing wide two-inch 砗 磲 circle, it is said that this circle is necessary to bring, so that after death soul is not lost. Earrings are mostly gold and silver turquoise texture, earrings on the hook. Even the above pearl string coral hanging on the hair, then pearl string coral hanging on both shoulders, and today the Tibetan women headdress similar. In addition, both rich and poor, wears two strings of rosaries, the rich wear large beeswax, chest with silver beaded pectoral decoration, will wear a Buddha box, the rich also wear "Pakistan beads", the value of daughter . Judging from the above costumes, the performance of the stratified dress in the area of ​​Wei-Zang has gradually been transformed from a level difference to a difference between the rich and the poor. This trend was further developed by the middle of the eighteenth century. When recorded in the costumes of aristocrats and civilians in Xigaze in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, Polaroid said: "At that time, Tibetans lived and worked in peace and contentment, When the fashion ... ... behave, officials in Shigatse, head wear Daikang body knit towel cap, earrings like the shadow of the pool in the Lotus ... ... civilians are the name of the top bun, or scattered Phi braided dress, hem Full of folds, "and then the author added:" Nowadays it is not the case, the costumes contend with contests, just as the water once contaminated, immediately loses its original luster. "The author of these so-called" Worries about the "bad" conditions are just showing how the apparel differences between various sectors were shrinking at that time. Therefore, the above-mentioned Polaroid bride's gorgeous costumes in today's Tibetan women's apparel are common, bow their heads are. In particular, the luxurious headdresses such as "Balzac" have also become one of the common garments of modern Tibetan women. This fashion has continued, and the commercialization of the modern and progressive apparel reinforces this trend. Before the liberation of Tibet, the German Heinrich Himch documented the prosperity of the apparel business in Lhasa. "There is a wide range of goods available from the needle thread to the glue line. Wide along the top hat ... ... national form of cap with their national costumes wear down together quite natural and harmonious. "The status of the commercialization of this dress is undoubtedly with the apparel grade differences shrink each other cause and effect. Regional differences In addition to stratification, nocturnalities and seasonal differences, the modern Tibetan clothing there are still great regional differences, but especially in the performance of women's clothing. Like many other ethnic groups in the world, the dress of Tibetan women is much more complicated than that of men. Perhaps all ethnic groups in China regard the preferences of the United States and even their family wealth and pride as women's clothing. Make women's dress one of the main features of national dress characteristics and differences. Tibetan women in the Tibetan areas Tibetan clothing in addition to the Shigatse, Lhasa, the above-mentioned clothing, the more important are the types of cloth and Ali area type. The most typical feature of the cloth garments is the men and women wear "Valley off", that is, wide shoulders sleeveless gown. Man's "Valley off" from the waist banding, but the knee hem, women's Valley off but not vertical to the foot. In addition, women's headdress more bun. The popular lambskin gown in the Ali Pulan area is exquisitely crafted and elegantly decorated. The lambskin is mainly made of wool and the collar, sleeve and bezel are decorated with otter skin and jacket silk, which is characteristic throughout the Tibetan area. However, Pulan's most beautiful and unique clothing is the women's "peacock" costume. It is closely linked with the name of Peacock River. The Peacock River is like a peacock. It is a symbol of beauty and auspiciousness. In order to make the peafowl Like beauty and auspicious eternity in this land, women's decorations will imitate peacocks and popular today. Women wear hats called "choima", is a bluish color line 氆 氇 system made of bowler hat, the bottom edge of the cap cut for paragraph braid. Women's earrings in a series of coral and pearl, about 15 cm. Unique hat and earrings symbolize the peacock's crown, the women's back "change Pakistan", that is, the back of the apron, "change Pakistan" with pure white fur smooth goatskin, with the central mosaic in the middle of a round pattern of 氆 氇 thick Line, showing the peacock's back, surrounded by mosaic with a circular pattern of brown-blue color 氆 婀, is graceful peacock wings, the bottom of the three openings is the peacock's tail feathers. Some "change Pakistan" leather folder colorful silk satin, but also has extraordinary grace, like a peacock in front of open, beautiful and colorful. Tibetan Aba, Gannan Xiahe and Qinghai and other places of Tibetan women headdresses mostly "broken pigtails", the hair braided into dozens of fine braid, then the black silk or brown silk, straight to the ankle. Hanging from the head a wide range of hard cloth Xu, a really fake amber, agate or silver bowl-shaped ornaments. Since the arm has a ruler from the arm of hard cloth, hanging and ankle, decorated with bowl-shaped silver ornaments or silver, copper, the number of rows, up to dozens. Unmarried woman, comb two pigtails, braid affixed with a red cloth, the row of red coral rows. Some women adorned larger otter otters at the top of the head. Belt hanging a silver hook or iron, copper hook, called "snow Kyrgyzstan," was originally used when milking milk milking, and later became an ornament. There is also a round or peach-shaped silverware called "Longguo" on both sides of the belt, with a long hole in the lower part and a red silk-green belt, which is rather elegant. Tibetan Tibetan women's Tibetan robes with many large ribbon trim, side by side decorated in the back. Generally black, red, green, purple, etc., most of the number of five to seven, while others are covered with leather, Tibetan women wear more yellow-bellied robes. Long gown down to the feet, lumbar silk or fabric color belt. Gannan Zhuoni, women along the banks of the river more wear pomegranate hat (dome, the back of a pomegranate-shaped head) and "chimney hat" (top like a chimney, brim in two, can wind and rain.) Dress like Manchu Cheongsam, Waichuan a vest, the belt of a self-woven geometric pattern Qingbaihua belt. The most prominent is the use of coral hat hat-shaped coral zebra, quite distinctive. Because of the warmer climate in the area of ​​Zhouqu, Gansu, women usually have thin and wide black robes, wearing a blouse, a long black or blue long belt at the waist, a girdle of robes in the waistband, wide trousers, Starting from, some also tie the legs cloth, most of the head wrapped around folded into two-inch wide headdress, chest and upper waist decorated with a series of pieces of coral, chest wearing a large circular silver plate, painted ethnic patterns . Some costumes have historical relics In some areas, the costumes have obvious historical relics. For example, the Jiarong Tibetan in the agricultural area of ​​Aba prefecture in Sichuan Province have long been living close to the Qiang ethnic group and interacting with each other. Today, women's costumes also retain some Qiang clothing features. Such as the general wear long gown, and the main blue-black, the lower body around the waist, waist tied with silk flowers, winter wear sheepskin gown or knit collarless short coat and so on. In a nutshell, due to the different natural conditions, modes of production and history, Tibetan costumes are exceptionally rich and varied. There are quite a few differences among them. In some areas, there are big differences between counties, counties and townships. At present, more than 200 kinds of apparel have been found, ranking the first among ethnic minorities in China. In addition, the Tibetan costume system in addition to the above-mentioned level differences, but also mainly reflected in the festivals of women's clothing, major events in life, changes in costumes at ceremonies. Festive costumes are more than usual dress gorgeous, grand. This is well known, but there is a big difference between the rituals of adults and the women's clothing before and after marriage, but it is a major feature of Tibetan costumes. Tibetan farmers in Qinghai Province to the fifteen, seventeen years old, we should change the childhood-type braid into adult braid. And to choose auspicious day to carry on, call "wearing the sky" (that is, the girl adult ritual), ask the monks to hold a religious ritual, and then by adult women for the girl renewal, worship Buddha, ancestors and parents, Ancestral song. " Tibetan girls at the age of 15 want to wear "Malton" (hair set) It is made of cloth or silk, decorated with many silver shield, coral. Tibetan women newlywed in Guro should wear a large sleeve coat and a gorgeous vest. Similarly, the tibetan unmarried women's hair is much shorter than the married women's hair, while Tibetan women in Aba started to build knot after 16 years of age. Ginza Zhuoni unmarried girls combed three braids together, married women are in the middle of the series, both sides of the non-woven, but from the waist and are braided together. Some adult costumes also retain the archaic, such as Aba Prefecture pine farmland Tibetan women married, the head to be set with an amber tubular bag, such headdress is said to be ancient Tibet Ali women's headdress, today The entire Tibetan area is rare. In addition to funeral, there are some special systems. For example, the widowed wife of Aba Prefecture in Sichuan Province should remove all the ornaments from her body to keep his honor and keep her ornaments for one to two years. And this time, avoid wearing bright gorgeous clothes, to express the memory of the dead. Different natural environments, folk custom, production and life style determine various kinds of regional costumes, seasonal costumes and folk costumes coordinated with this; the development and reform of history, politics, religion and economy determine the longitudinal development of Tibetan costume culture and each Class clothing, professional clothing vary widely. Therefore, Tibetan costumes have rich cultural connotations, complex structures, various levels and distinctive features.

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